Buying Kira and Gho in Thimphu: The Complete Guide
The gho (men’s robe) and kira (women’s ankle-length dress) are more than just clothing in Bhutan - they’re symbols of national identity and cultural pride. Whether you’re attending a festival, a formal event, or simply want to take home an authentic piece of Bhutanese heritage, here’s your complete shopping guide.
Understanding the National Dress
The Gho (Men’s Attire)
A knee-length robe tied at the waist with a kera (belt). Complete attire includes:
- Gho (main robe)
- Kera (woven belt)
- Wonju (inner shirt)
- Tego (outer jacket - optional)
- Kabney (scarf indicating rank/status)
The Kira (Women’s Attire)
An ankle-length rectangular piece worn over a wonju (blouse), secured with a kera:
- Kira (main dress)
- Wonju (inner blouse)
- Kera (woven belt)
- Toego (outer jacket)
- Rachu (embroidered scarf for special occasions)
Best Places to Buy in Thimphu
Premium Handwoven Textiles
Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre
Location: Changangkha Lhakhang Road Specialty: Traditional handwoven fabrics from authentic weavers Price Range:
- Kira sets: Nu. 15,000 - 80,000 ($180 - $950)
- Gho sets: Nu. 12,000 - 60,000 ($145 - $720)
Why Visit: This is the premier location for authentic, handwoven textiles. You can watch weavers work on traditional backstrap looms. They source materials from all over Bhutan, including the famous Bumthang yathra (wool) and mathra (silk patterns) from eastern Bhutan.
Pro Tip: Visit in the morning to see the weavers at work and learn about traditional patterns.
The Royal Textile Academy
Location: Norzin Lam (main street) Specialty: Museum-quality textiles, premium collectibles Price Range:
- Exhibition pieces: Nu. 50,000 - 200,000 ($600 - $2,400)
- Wearable pieces: Nu. 20,000 - 60,000 ($240 - $720)
Why Visit: Features pieces from master weavers across Bhutan. Part museum, part shop. You’re buying wearable art here.
Norzin Handwoven Textiles
Location: Norzin Lam, near Centenary Farmers Market Specialty: Everyday wear to ceremonial pieces Price Range:
- Everyday kira: Nu. 8,000 - 15,000 ($95 - $180)
- Festival kira: Nu. 18,000 - 45,000 ($215 - $540)
Why Visit: Excellent selection of machine-woven pieces that are more affordable but still high quality.
Department Stores
Bhutan Department Store
Location: Chang Lam Specialty: Ready-made ghos and kiras in all sizes Price Range:
- Ready-made gho: Nu. 3,500 - 8,000 ($42 - $95)
- Ready-made kira: Nu. 4,500 - 12,000 ($54 - $145)
Why Visit: Convenient for ready-to-wear items. Good if you need something quickly or are on a budget.
Yarkay Central Store
Location: Near Clock Tower Square Specialty: One-stop shopping for complete outfits Price Range: Nu. 5,000 - 25,000 ($60 - $300) for complete sets
Why Visit: You can buy everything here - ghos, kiras, shoes, bags, and accessories. Good for tourists who want a complete package.
Tailor-Made Options
Lungta Handicrafts
Location: Jungshi Commercial Building Services: Custom tailoring in 3-5 days Price: Nu. 8,000 - 15,000 ($95 - $180) plus fabric cost
Why Visit: Get a perfectly fitted gho or kira. Bring your own fabric or choose from their selection.
Tshongdue Handicrafts
Location: Changangkha Services: Traditional tailoring with express options Price: Nu. 6,000 - 12,000 ($72 - $145) plus fabric
Understanding Fabrics and Patterns
Fabric Types
| Fabric | Characteristics | Best For | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pure Silk | Shiny, smooth, cool | Festivals, summer | Nu. 25,000+ |
| Cotton-Silk Blend | Comfortable, durable | Everyday wear | Nu. 8,000 - 20,000 |
| Raw Silk | Textured, warm | Winter, formal | Nu. 15,000 - 40,000 |
| Wool (Yathra) | Thick, warm, patterns | Winter, eastern style | Nu. 12,000 - 35,000 |
| Rayon/Poly | Affordable, easy-care | Budget-friendly | Nu. 3,000 - 8,000 |
Regional Patterns
Mathra (Eastern Bhutan)
- Intricate supplementary weft patterns
- Originally from Kurtoe and Kheng regions
- Highly prized for ceremonial wear
Yathra (Bumthang)
- Wool with colorful geometric patterns
- Originally for winter blankets
- Now popular for casual winter kiras
Sershing (Western Bhutan)
- Horizontal striped patterns
- Traditionally from Haa and Paro
- Subtle, elegant for everyday wear
Bura (High-end Silk)
- Elaborate brocade-like patterns
- Woven with extra weft technique
- Reserved for special occasions
Sizes and Measurements
Gho Sizes
| Size | Chest (inches) | Length (inches) |
|---|---|---|
| S | 38-40 | 50-52 |
| M | 42-44 | 52-54 |
| L | 46-48 | 54-56 |
| XL | 50-52 | 56-58 |
Kira Sizes
| Size | Length (inches) | Width (inches) |
|---|---|---|
| S | 55-58 | 44-46 |
| M | 58-61 | 46-48 |
| L | 61-64 | 48-50 |
| XL | 64-67 | 50-52 |
Note: Custom tailoring is recommended for the best fit, especially for formal wear.
Complete Outfit Checklist
For Men (Gho Attire)
- Gho (main robe)
- Kera (belt) - Nu. 800 - 3,000
- Wonju (inner shirt) - Nu. 500 - 1,500
- Tego (jacket) - Nu. 1,200 - 5,000
- Kabney (scarf) - Nu. 500 - 3,000
- Knee-high socks - Nu. 200 - 600
- Formal shoes (Tshoglham) - Nu. 2,500 - 8,000
For Women (Kira Attire)
- Kira (main dress)
- Wonju (blouse) - Nu. 800 - 3,000
- Kera (belt) - Nu. 800 - 3,000
- Toego (jacket) - Nu. 1,500 - 6,000
- Rachu (scarf) - Nu. 500 - 2,500
- Brooch (koma) - Nu. 300 - 1,500
- Inner skirt (teygo) - Nu. 500 - 1,200
- Shoes - Nu. 1,500 - 5,000
Shopping Tips
Best Time to Shop
- Morning (9 AM - 12 PM): Fresh selection, less crowded
- Avoid: Lunch hours (12:30 - 2 PM) and late afternoon
Bargaining
- Department Stores: Fixed prices
- Textile Centres: Minimal negotiation (5-10%)
- Street Vendors: More flexibility (15-20%)
- Always be respectful when bargaining
Quality Check
- Weave: Check for even patterns and tight weave
- Seams: Inspect stitching (especially for ready-made)
- Color: Ensure colors are even, no fading
- Touch: Quality fabric feels smooth/substantial
- Origin: Ask about the weaver/origin
Customs for Foreigners
- Duty-Free Allowance: Personal clothing is duty-free
- Antique Textiles: Requires export permit from Department of Culture
- Proof of Purchase: Keep receipts for customs
Alternative Options
Rentals for Festivals
If you’re attending a festival and don’t want to buy:
- Royal Textile Academy: Rental for Nu. 500-1,000/day
- Your Hotel: Many offer rental service
- Required: Security deposit
Second-Hand Options
- Weekend Market: Second-hand kiras starting Nu. 1,500
- Good for: Practice wearing, casual use
- Check for: Wear and tear, stains
Cultural Etiquette
Wearing the Gho/Kira
- Gho: Should reach knee-length, not shorter or longer
- Kera: Tied snugly at waist, creates pockets in gho
- Kira: Worn with left fold over right (like Buddhist prayers)
- Shoes: Clean, formal footwear preferred
Color Meanings
- Maroon/Red: Monks, religious occasions
- White: Mourning, funeral wear
- Yellow: Royal family, high officials
- Orange/Saffron: Higher religious figures
What to Budget
| Purpose | Budget Option | Premium Option |
|---|---|---|
| Festival Attendance | Nu. 8,000 - 12,000 | Nu. 35,000 - 80,000 |
| Formal Event | Nu. 12,000 - 25,000 | Nu. 50,000 - 150,000 |
| Everyday Wear | Nu. 5,000 - 10,000 | Nu. 20,000 - 45,000 |
| Gift/Souvenir | Nu. 3,000 - 8,000 | Nu. 15,000 - 60,000 |
Recommended Shops by Need
| Need | Recommended Shop | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Best Quality | Gagyel Lhundrup Weaving Centre | Authentic, handwoven |
| Budget-Friendly | Bhutan Department Store | Ready-made, affordable |
| Custom Fit | Lungta Handicrafts | Good tailors |
| One-Stop Shop | Yarkay Central Store | Complete outfits |
| Unique Pieces | Royal Textile Academy | Museum-quality |
| Quick Purchase | Norzin Handwoven Textiles | Good selection |
Final Tips
- Start Early: If you need something for a specific event, shop at least 3-4 days in advance
- Ask for Help: Shop staff are happy to assist with draping/styling
- Try It On: Always try before buying, especially ready-made items
- Get a Receipt: Essential for exchanges and customs
- Learn to Wear: Ask for a lesson on how to properly wear your gho/kira
- Care Instructions: Ask about washing (silk needs special care)
Remember: When you buy a gho or kira, you’re not just buying clothing - you’re supporting Bhutan’s living weaving traditions and taking home a piece of the country’s cultural heritage. Choose pieces that speak to you, and wear them with the pride and dignity that Bhutanese people embody every day.