Life in Bhutan: Beyond the Myths

What is it really like to live in the Last Shangri-La? This Himalayan kingdom, often romanticized as a Buddhist paradise, is a complex, modernizing society that balances ancient traditions with contemporary challenges. Life in Bhutan is unique, but perhaps not in the ways you might expect.

Daily Life in Bhutan

Morning Routines

A Typical Morning in Thimphu:

6:00 AM: Wake-up call from neighborhood dogs or temple gongs
6:30 AM: Morning exercise - walking, going to the gym (growing trend), or traditional archery
7:00 AM: Breakfast (typically rice, ezay (chili), suja (butter tea), or eggs and toast)
8:00 AM: School run (for parents) or commute to work
8:30 AM: Work day begins

Rural Morning:

5:00 AM: Wake up early to care for animals (yaks, cattle)
6:00 AM: Farm chores - milking, watering fields
7:30 AM: Breakfast with family
8:30 AM: Children walk to school, adults to fields

The Work Culture

Government Jobs (Most Coveted):

Hours: 9 AM - 5 PM, Monday - Friday (Saturday half-day in some offices)
Lunch break: 1-2 PM (long enough to go home for lunch)
Tea time: Morning (10:30 AM) and afternoon (3:30 PM) tea breaks
Atmosphere: Generally relaxed, hierarchical
Perks: Job security, pension, respect in society

Private Sector:

Growing rapidly especially in Thimphu and Phuentsholing
Longer hours: Often 6 days/week
More competitive: Higher risk, potentially higher reward
Industries: Tourism, construction, banking, IT, retail

Traditional Occupations:

Farming: Still 60%+ of population
Weaving: Especially in eastern Bhutan (Radi, Kheng)
Craftsmanship: Wood carving, painting, metalwork
Monastic life: Monks and nuns (significant portion of population)

The Pace of Life

“Bhutanese Time”:

Relaxed approach to timekeeping
“Bhutan Standard Time” joke: +30 minutes to any scheduled time
Not universal - younger generation, businesses more punctual
Frustrating for foreigners, endearing to many

Exception: Government offices, airlines, schools run on schedule

The Values That Shape Life

Gross National Happiness (GNH)

Not just a slogan - it genuinely influences policy and life:

Four Pillars:

Sustainable development: Economic growth with environmental protection
Environmental conservation: 72% forest cover, constitutional requirement
Cultural preservation: Driglam Namzha (traditional etiquette), dress code
Good governance: Democratic since 2008, emphasis on transparency

What This Means for Daily Life:

Conservation is mainstream: Recycling, plastic bans, environmental awareness
Tradition matters: Wearing gho/kira for official occasions, respecting elders
Community focus: People know their neighbors, help each other
Less stress: Generally lower stress levels than many countries (though increasing)

Buddhism in Daily Life

Not Just Religion - Lifestyle:

Temples everywhere: Most homes have a shrine room
Prayer flags: On mountain passes, homes, bridges
Prayer wheels: Spun by people walking by
Festivals: Tshechus (religious festivals) major events
Mindfulness: Less formalized than in the West, but present

Impact on Behavior:

Compassion: Helping others is expected
Non-violence: (mostly)体现在 gentle approach to conflict
Respect: For all life (bugs released outside, not killed)
Karma: Belief in cause and effect influences decisions

Family and Community

Extended Family:

Multi-generational households common
Grandparents often care for grandchildren
Elder care at home, not nursing homes (mostly)
Family obligations take priority over individual desires

Community Ties:

Close-knit neighborhoods: Everyone knows everyone
Community work: Losar (New Year), Lhay (rituals) done collectively
Helping neighbors: Especially in rural areas
Social cohesion: High trust, low crime

Lifestyle: Modern Meets Traditional

Clothing

Everyday:

Urban: Western clothing common (jeans, t-shirts)
Rural: More traditional (kira, gho)
Workplaces: Gho/kira required in government offices, formal occasions
Special occasions: Always wear traditional dress

The Gho (Men’s Robe):

Knee-length robe tied at waist with kera (belt)
Creates pocket for carrying things
Required for government officials, formal occasions
Worn by many men daily

The Kira (Women’s Dress):

Ankle-length rectangular piece, tied at waist
Wonju (blouse) underneath
Toego (jacket) over top
More elaborate for special occasions

Food and Eating

Staple Foods:

Red rice (Bhutanese specialty)
Ema datshi (chili and cheese) - national dish
Suja (butter tea) - morning beverage
Momos (dumplings)

Eating Habits:

Lunch is main meal: Often eaten at home
Dinner lighter: Leftovers or simple meal
Eating with hands: Traditional for some dishes
Family meals: Still common (especially dinner)

Modern Changes:

Fast food growing in Thimphu (pizza, burgers, fried chicken)
Processed foods increasing (concern about health impacts)
Eating out more common (restaurants in cities)
Diet shifting (less traditional, more processed)

Housing

Traditional Houses:

Rammed earth walls, stone foundations
Wooden windows with elaborate carvings
Painted: Bright colors, religious symbols
Two stories: Animals on ground floor (traditional), family above
Cold in winter: No central heating (hot stone baths for warmth)

Modern Apartments:

Growing rapidly in Thimphu
Expensive by local standards
Changing dynamics: Nuclear families, less community interaction
Comfortable: Modern amenities, heating

Rural vs. Urban:

Rural: Traditional houses, large families, close to nature
Urban: Apartments, smaller families, convenient but crowded

Technology and Modernization

The Digital Revolution

Internet and Smartphones:

3G/4G available in most populated areas
Smartphones ubiquitous: Even grandmothers have smartphones
Social media: Facebook, WeChat very popular
Online shopping: Growing but limited

Impact:

Positive: Connection to world, information access, business opportunities
Negative: Screen addiction, erosion of face-to-face interaction, privacy concerns

Transportation

Getting Around:

Personal cars: Growing ownership (congestion in Thimphu)
Taxis: Affordable and common in cities
Public buses: Limited but exist
Walking: Still primary mode in many areas
Rural: Walking everywhere, sometimes horses/yaks

Roads:

Mountain roads: Winding, sometimes dangerous
East-West highway: Main artery, 1-2 days to travel east to west
Improving: But still challenging

Entertainment

Traditional:

Archery: National sport, weekend ritual
Khuru: Dart game, very popular
Degor: Traditional game
Singing/dancing: At festivals, celebrations

Modern:

Movies: Bollywood huge, Hollywood growing, Bhutanese films emerging
Music: Bhutanese pop (rigsar), traditional, international
Sports: Basketball huge, football growing
TV: Cable TV in most urban homes
Nightlife: Limited but growing (bars in Thimphu/Paro)

Challenges and Changes

Urbanization

Rapid Urban Growth:

Thimphu exploding: From 20,000 to 150,000+ in 50 years
Housing shortage: Rents soaring
Infrastructure strain: Traffic, water, waste
Rural depopulation: Young people moving to cities

Impacts:

Loss of community: Anonymity in cities
Cost of living: Rising, especially in Thimphu
Cultural change: More Western influence
Opportunity: Jobs, education, services

Youth Unemployment

Growing Concern:

Graduate unemployment: 10-15% (significant for Bhutan)
Skills mismatch: Education not aligned with job market
Expectations: Government jobs coveted, limited openings
Brain drain: Youth seeking opportunities abroad

Responses:

Vocational training: Government promoting trades
Entrepreneurship: Growing startup ecosystem
Overseas work: Youth going to Australia, Middle East (controversial)

Environmental Pressures

Challenges:

Waste management: Growing problem with urbanization
Vehicle emissions: Air quality concerns in Thimphu
Hydropower: Economic engine but environmental impact
Tourism pressure: Popular sites crowded

Bhutan’s Response:

Carbon negative: One of few countries
Plastic ban: Single-use plastics banned
Protected areas: Huge portion of country protected
GNH screening: Major projects assessed for GNH impact

Modernization vs. Tradition

The Tension:

Language: Dzongkha declining among youth, English dominant
Dress: Traditional wear required but resented by some youth
Values: Individualism vs. community
Religion: Secularization among educated youth

Balance:

Bhutan trying to modernize while preserving culture
Driglam Namzha (traditional etiquette) taught but questioned
Deliberate policies to preserve culture (dress codes, language requirements)

What Life is NOT Like

Common Misconceptions

Myth: “Everyone is happy all the time”

Reality: Bhutanese have problems like anyone else
GNH is a goal, not achieved state
Depression, stress exist (though less documented)

Myth: “It’s a medieval paradise”

Reality: Modern cities, technology, globalized
Thimphu has: Malls, fast food, traffic, high-rises
Rural areas still traditional but changing

Myth: “No crime, no problems”

Reality: Low but not zero crime
Domestic violence, youth crime exist
Drugs: Marijuana grows wild (traditional use), prescription drug abuse emerging

Myth: “Time stopped here”

Reality: Rapid change, especially last 20 years
TV/internet arrived 1999, huge transformation since
Old generation vs. young: Massive cultural gap

The Bhutanese Dream

What Do People Aspire To?

Traditional:

Government job: Security, respect, pension
Own home: Build traditional house
Family: Marriage, children, extended family nearby
Religious merit: Supporting monasteries, going on pilgrimages

Emerging:

Education: For children, sometimes abroad
Business/entrepreneurship: Especially among youth
Travel: Seeing the world (especially youth)
Modern comfort: Cars, smartphones, nice apartments

Tensions:

Individual vs. community: Young choosing personal goals over family expectations
Tradition vs. modernity: How to be both Bhutanese and global citizen
Material vs. spiritual: Consumerism vs. Buddhist values

A Day in the Life

Karma, 35, Government Employee, Thimphu

6:00 AM: Wake up, check phone 6:30 AM: Go for walk (or gym) 7:30 AM: Breakfast with family (eggs, rice, ezay) 8:30 AM: Drop children at school, drive to office 9:00 AM: Work (tea break at 10:30) 1:00 PM: Lunch at home with wife 2:00 PM: Back to work (tea break at 3:30) 5:00 PM: Finish work, pick up children 6:00 PM: Help children with homework 7:00 PM: Dinner with family 8:00 PM: Watch TV/phone time 9:30 PM: Prepare for bed

Pema, 28, Farmer, Rural Bumthang

5:00 AM: Wake up, light bukhari (wood stove) 5:30 AM: Milk cows, check on animals 7:00 AM: Breakfast with family (red rice, ezay) 8:00 AM: Work in fields (season dependent) 12:00 PM: Lunch break (simple meal) 1:00 PM: Continue farm work or go to forest (mushrooms, bamboo) 5:00 PM: Finish work, care for animals 7:00 PM: Dinner with extended family 8:00 PM: Evenings: sometimes visit neighbors, watch TV at village shop, or early bed 9:00 PM: Sleep (winter, earlier in summer)

Deki, 22, University Student, Thimphu

7:00 AM: Wake up (room in shared apartment) 8:00 AM: Quick breakfast, bus to college 9:00 AM: Classes 1:00 PM: Lunch at college cafeteria 2:00 PM: More classes or library 5:00 PM: Coffee shop with friends (check phone, social media) 7:00 PM: Dinner (often out or street food) 8:00 PM: Study or socialize 11:00 PM: Sleep

What Foreigners Notice

Positive:

Safety: Very safe, low crime
Clean: Relatively clean (except some urban areas)
Friendly: People genuinely kind and helpful
Slow pace: Less rushed than many countries
Nature: Beautiful, accessible

Challenging:

Bureaucracy: Government processes slow, complicated
Service: “Relaxed” approach can be frustrating
Limited goods: Not everything available
Price: More expensive than neighboring countries
Weather: Cold winters, wet summers (depending on location)

Is Life Better?

Compared To?

Vs. West:

Less stress: Generally, but increasing
More community: Stronger social ties
Less materialism: But growing
More uncertainty: Especially for youth (fewer jobs)
Different values: Community over individual

Vs. Neighbors (India, Nepal):

Less poverty: But not absent
Better governance: Generally
More expensive: Cost of living higher
Slower pace: Sometimes frustrating, sometimes nice

Reality:

Bhutan is not paradise: But has unique approach to life
Challenges exist: Like anywhere
Values matter: GNH genuinely influences decisions
Change is rapid: For better and worse

The Future

Where is Bhutan Heading?

Concerns:

Too fast: Risk of losing what makes Bhutan unique
Youth aspirations: Can Bhutan provide opportunities young people want?
Climate change: Himalayan glaciers melting (critical for water)
Globalization: Impossible to resist entirely

Hope:

Deliberate development: Policies try to balance progress and preservation
Strong identity: Bhutanese proud of their culture
Adaptable: Have modernized while keeping core values
Youth engagement: Young people passionate about Bhutan’s future

Final Thoughts: Life in Bhutan is not the romanticized Shangri-La of travel brochures. It’s real, complex, changing. Bhutanese people face challenges like anyone else. But there is something different here - a conscious attempt to measure success in happiness, not just GDP; to preserve culture while modernizing; to balance development with conservation. Whether this balance can be maintained in the face of globalization is the question that will define Bhutan’s future. For now, life in Bhutan offers a unique blend of ancient wisdom and modern aspiration, set against some of the most beautiful scenery on Earth.

Life in Bhutan: The Last Shangri-La

Inspired to Visit Bhutan?