Bhutanese Food Guide: What to Eat in Thimphu

Bhutanese cuisine is a delightful journey of flavors - spicy, savory, and uniquely Himalayan. Thimphu, the capital, offers the best selection of traditional Bhutanese dishes alongside modern fusion. Let me guide you through the must-try dishes and where to find them.

Understanding Bhutanese Cuisine

The Chili Philosophy: In Bhutan, chili is not a spice - it’s a vegetable. The national dish, ema datshi (chili cheese), consists primarily of chili peppers and cheese. Bhutanese believe that eating chili makes you warm in cold weather and “cools” your body in summer.

Key Ingredients:

• Datshi (cheese) - Made from yak or cow milk
• Ema (chili) - Green and red varieties
• Suja (butter tea) - Salted tea with butter
• Red rice - Nutty, nutritious local staple
• Shakam (dried beef) - Preserved meat

Must-Try Traditional Dishes

Ema Datshi (Chili Cheese)

The heart and soul of Bhutanese cuisine. Fresh green chilies cooked with local cheese.

• Best at: Bukhari Restaurant, Thimphu
• Spice level: Hot! Ask for “mild” if sensitive
• Price: Nu 150-200

Kewa Datshi (Potato Cheese)

A milder version of ema datshi, perfect for beginners.

• Creamy potatoes in cheese sauce
• Comfort food for cold evenings
• Available everywhere

Shakam Eazy (Dried Beef with Chili)

Cured beef strips stir-fried with chilies and onions.

• Chewy, savory, intensely flavorful
• High protein, preserved traditionally
• Best with red rice

Momos (Dumplings)

While originally Tibetan, momos are a Bhutanese staple.

• Beef momos - Most popular filling
• Cheese momos - Local specialty
• Vegetable momos - Cabbage, onion, cheese

Phaksha Paa (Pork with Radish)

Sliced pork belly cooked with daikon radish and chili.

• Rich, fatty, and delicious
• Often served at special occasions
• Best at local family-run restaurants

Jasha Maru (Spicy Chicken)

Minced chicken with chili, garlic, ginger, and onions.

• Comforting spicy curry
• Goes well with red rice
• Popular lunch dish

Top Places to Eat in Thimphu

Folk Heritage Museum Restaurant

Authentic traditional setting with floor seating

• Specializes in: Ema datshi, Shakam paa
• Atmosphere: Traditional Bhutanese house
• Price: Nu 300-500 per person
• Must try: Their lunch set with multiple dishes

Bukhari Restaurant

Thimphu institution since 1998

• Specializes in: Kewa datshi, Jasha maru
• Atmosphere: Cozy, rustic
• Price: Nu 250-400 per person
• Must try: Pork belly with dried chili

Karma’s Coffee House

Modern fusion with traditional flavors

• Specializes in: Momos, Ema datshi wraps
• Atmosphere: Trendy, cafe-style
• Price: Nu 200-350 per person
• Must try: Cheese momos with suja

Weekend Farmer’s Market (Centenary Market)

For authentic local experience

• Fresh ingredients, ready-to-eat snacks
• Try: Khur-le (buckwheat pancake), Puta (noodles)
• Best time: Saturday mornings, 8-11 AM
• Interact with local vendors

Chig-cha-ga (Local Canteens)

Budget-friendly, authentic home cooking

• Look for signs saying “Local Food”
• Price: Nu 100-150 per meal
• Best for: Ema datshi, red rice, suja

Street Food & Snacks

Sha Phaley

Fried bread stuffed with seasoned beef or cabbage.

• Crispy outside, savory inside
• Perfect breakfast or afternoon snack
• Available at street vendors near Clock Tower

Khur-le

Buckwheat pancakes, often with cheese or egg topping.

• Nutty, gluten-free
• Traditional breakfast item
• Best at weekend market

Jaju (Soup)

Broth with spinach, cheese, and sometimes egg.

• Light, comforting side dish
• Often served complimentary
• Ask for “jaju with egg”

Sip-N-Cookie (Modern Cafe Scene)

Trendy spots for coffee and fusion

• Specializes: Latte with ema datshi twist
• Atmosphere: Hip, Instagram-worthy
• Must try: Cheese pastries with Bhutanese herbs

Unique Beverages

Suja (Butter Tea)

Salty tea with yak butter - an acquired taste but essential.

• Warming at high altitude
• Provides energy
• Drink it like locals: small sips

Ara (Local Spirit)

Fermented rice or millet alcohol.

• Warning: Can be very strong (40%+ ABV)
• Often served warm
• Try at: Local homes (with guide)

Changkey (Beer)

Local Bhutanese beer.

• Light, refreshing
• Available everywhere
• Best served chilled

Mountain Licker (Craft Beer)

New microbrewery scene.

• Specializes: Himalayan herbs, barley beers
• Modern pub atmosphere
• Try at: Cloud 7 Bar & Kitchen

Food Etiquette Tips

1. Eat with right hand - Traditional for some dishes
2. Ask for “mild” - If not used to spice
3. Try suja - Even if salty, it’s part of experience
4. Remove shoes - If eating in traditional setup
5. Compliment the cook - “Mashey lay” (Thank you)

Budget Guide (Per Person)

My Food Journey: Personal Recommendations

After 10 years guiding tourists, here’s my perfect food day:

Breakfast (8 AM): Khur-le at weekend market with suja Morning Snack (11 AM): Momos at Karma’s Coffee House Lunch (1 PM): Ema datshi set at Bukhari Restaurant Afternoon (4 PM): Sha phaley from street vendor Dinner (7 PM): Multi-course dinner at Folk Heritage Museum

Pro Tips

1. Start mild - Try kewa datshi before ema datshi
2. Red rice - Always request it, more nutritious than white
3. Carry water - Spice level can be intense
4. Avoid too late - Most restaurants close by 9 PM
5. Book ahead - Folk Heritage Museum requires reservation

Where to Find Vegetarian Options

• Buddha Cafe - Pure vegetarian, amazing momos
• Chhundu Executive - Multiple vegetarian datshi options
• Ambrosia Restaurant - Continental with Bhutanese fusion

Final Recommendation

If you only try one dish: Ema datshi with red rice at Bukhari Restaurant.

If you have three days:

1. Day 1: Traditional lunch at Folk Heritage Museum
2. Day 2: Street food tour at Centenary Market
3. Day 3: Modern fusion at Karma’s Coffee House

Remember: Bhutanese food is about community, warmth, and hospitality. Don’t rush the meal. Engage with your server. Ask about ingredients. Food is how Bhutanese share their culture.

“Ema datshi is not just food - it’s Bhutan on a plate. The heat of the chili represents our fiery spirit, the creaminess of the cheese our gentle nature, and the red rice our earthy connection to the land.” - Karma Dorji, Bhutanese Chef